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With this remix\u00a0we removed the need for the heat-set threaded inserts to attach the cover and GoPro mount to the base.\u00a0 These components are expensive and take special equipment to insert them in to the base and activation surfaces.\u00a0 We also replaced the 1\/4 inch bolt with a printed post and a screw-in collar (with its own Teflon tube lining) to make the connection between the activation surface and the internal spring more stable and the action smoother.<\/p>\n
As a result of assembling my Prusa i3 MK3 printer I learned an interesting way to join printed parts with a nut and bolt.\u00a0 The trick is to build a trap for the nut into one of the parts.\u00a0 The nut is “squeezed” into the trap (so it doesn’t easily fall out) and then the bolt is inserted through the other part and screwed into the nut.\u00a0 This method works quite well to hold the parts together and supports easy disassembly and reassembly.<\/p>\n
I also had a brainstorm regarding how to make the action of the center post even smoother.\u00a0 It occurred to me that I could place one Teflon tube inside another and each tube would be fixed to the collar or the post so the only sliding surfaces would be the two Teflon tubes sliding against each other.<\/p>\n
Finally, I learned how to create threads in Fusion 360 which were very reliable and realized that I could create my own post with its own characteristics that would facilitate mounting and removing activation surfaces and I could create a more robust connection between the collar and the cover – it’s necessary to create them as separate parts in the first place in order to allow the cover to be 3D printed without supports.<\/p>\n
Obtain the updated STL and Fusion 360 files at Thingiverse at this URL:\u00a0https:\/\/www.thingiverse.com\/thing:2870415<\/a><\/p>\n You’ll also need to purchase the following components:<\/p>\n You’ll then need to print each of the STL files from Thingiverse.\u00a0 I recommend printing all parts with 2 perimeters\/shells, 3 top and bottom layers, and 20% infill.\u00a0 The one exception is the post.\u00a0 I recommend printing that with 100% infill and at least 3 perimeters\/shells for as much strength as possible against shearing forces.\u00a0 No supports are needed for any of the parts.<\/p>\n I include two versions of the collar.\u00a0 It’s really hard to predict how 3D printers will print parts with fine tolerances.\u00a0 First print the standard collar and it you simply can’t insert the wider PTFE tube into it then print the second collar – it has a slightly larger hole.\u00a0 It’s important that the tube fit snugly in the collar.\u00a0 That’s less critical for the PTFE tube that fits over the post but a snug fit will lead to a more stable activation surface.<\/p>\n Step 1:<\/strong> Insert 2, M3 hex nuts into the slots in the bottom of the switch base.<\/p>\n If you initially have trouble pushing the nuts into the slots you can insert a screw from the other side and use the screw to pull the nut down into the slot.<\/p>\n Step 2:<\/strong> Insert two M3 hex nuts into the two cages on the bottom of the switch cover.<\/p>\n The nuts should fit snugly but don’t force them into the cages – the cages will break and you’ll need to print another cover.\u00a0 If necessary use a small file to slowly open up the slot in the cage until you can insert the nut without overly forcing it in.\u00a0 Note that the nuts should be inserted with a flat side on top and on the bottom:<\/p>\n Use a narrow tool to align the holes in the cage with the hole through the nut.<\/p>\n\n
Assembly Process:<\/strong><\/h1>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/volksswitch.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/IMG_0461-1024x768.jpg?resize=525%2C394\")
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<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"